I was so excited to see poinsettias being planted downtown yesterday that I climbed right on up the bandstand in the middle of the zocalo to take a picture.
However, while I like this picture a lot, it doesn't really give you a good idea of what Oaxaca
(pronounced wah-ha-kah) was like yesterday. So, while some pictures are worth a thousand words, I thought I'd use some words to try to give you an idea of what led me to the moment when I took this picture.
I had been hoping to sleep in on this Saturday morning, but out of habit I woke up at 5:30. After laying in bed awake for awhile, I glanced at my newsfeed and noticed that there were posts about teacher protests in Oaxaca. So early in the morning? It seemed to be true, as I saw photos of crowds forming in the early morning light.
Later on, I saw on the news that the union leader had arrived, and they would be marching from the gas station to the administrative buildings. This was in protest of the evaluative tests the government is making teachers take this weekend. The teachers' union would be walking along the very route I had been hoping to take to town that morning, so I texted my friend, letting her know we needed to keep an eye on the situation.
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| Not everyone marched - there were teachers who took the test this weekend. |
We talked it over, and in the end, we decided to give our trip to town a try. We both needed to get some things done, and we agreed that if we did see any big crowds, we would just turn around. My experience in Oaxaca in 2006 makes me a little more cautious in these situations than most people around me, but, as the saying goes, better safe than sorry.
Well, as we got to the edge of the city, we looked over towards the administrative office buildings in the distance. Between us and the buildings was probably the most federal police officers I've ever seen, looking like a sea of black in their uniforms. Ahead of us, we saw the large crowd of protesters, calmly making their way over a bridge that we would normally drive under to get into the city.
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| Photo from a local newspaper of the protesters approaching the bridge. |
Whoa. Ok, I guess this is what I was talking about when I suggested we turn around if we came across anything. However, in front of us, police were redirecting traffic safely away from the scene, and we soon found ourselves heading in the opposite direction - away from the conflict, but still towards the city.
The rest of the Oaxaca was progressing with their day as usual, and we made our way downtown, parked, and set out separately to get our errands done. I stopped in a craft store and bought ornaments for the tree at school, then made my way over to
Mayordomo to buy some chocolate for Christmas presents.
Determined to get more of my Christmas shopping done, I then made my way north to a store that sells women's artisan products. As I looked around the store, I heard the man who works there say that we were having an earthquake. I hadn't felt anything, and I looked around at the things hanging around me and didn't see any moving - so I figured maybe he was mistaken.
But sure enough, later on I saw that there had been an earthquake - 4.9 with an epicenter in Atzompa - only about 7 miles away from where I was.. For those of you familiar with Oaxaca, Atzompa is very near to Monte Alban. We are having a lot of close earthquakes lately! Not sure what that's about.
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| I visited the ruins of Atzompa for the first time this summer. |
Side note: I decided to hold another earthquake drill at school last week, and the kids are doing great. Now everyone calmly gets up from their seats, makes decisions about where a safe place would be, and gets into textbook safety positions. In fact, they were a little too calm this go around and could've done with a bit more haste... Ah well, there's always room for improvement. ;)
Back to yesterday, I met my friend again for lunch and we decided on a coffee shop along the tourist walkway. As we ate, we began to hear music approaching us. Pretty soon a wedding party was passing by - accompanied by a band, traditional dancers, and guests dressed to the nines. My friend and I had trouble imagining a wedding in the U.S. that would include a parade down the streets.
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| Can you spot the bride and groom? |
We then walked through the zocalo, where I delighted in seeing the poinsettias and took a few pictures. We meandered our way back to where we parked the car and headed home, with no more sign of the protests on the other side of the city.
There were more protests today, as the teachers marched to the zocalo this time. I selfishly hope that they didn't mess up the newly planted poinsettias. I have tried to understand the teachers' perspective and why they are so against this test, but it is hard to see past how ineffective and harmful to Oaxaca all their protests seem to be.
So, while I delight that it is beginning to look like Christmas around here, Oaxaca is still struggling. I ask that you continue to pray for Oaxaca. Thank you!
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| Atop the bandstand, looking across the zocalo towards the Cathedral. Beautiful Oaxaca. |