"That's weird. There aren't usually buses parked there..." That was my first clue that this trip to the airport might not go as smoothly as one would hope.
It was a Monday afternoon, and my college roommate was wrapping up her week-long visit to Oaxaca. Her flight was scheduled to leave near 4:00pm, and even though it only takes an hour to get to the airport, I decided we should probably head that way at 1:00pm, just in case there were problems.
Little did we know that, that morning, the bus union was in talks with the powers-that-be about raising the bus fare from 40 cents to 45 cents. Seven hundred buses were on standby (700!), in case they needed to blockade to get their point across. At noon things were not looking good for the bus drivers, and at 1:00pm they gave the word to go ahead and blockade. Exactly when my friend and I left for the airport...
We hadn't gotten far into the city when traffic suddenly stopped and I realized what was happening. There are great benefits to knowing what "normal" and "not normal" look like in a foreign country - and having seen the buses out of place earlier, I wasn't too confused about what was going on. We followed traffic as it flowed onto side streets and soon I was able to get past the few major intersections where people tend to blockade. I thought we were in the clear.
But, we quickly discovered that bus drivers - who usually have to find their own way around blockades - know very well how to shut the city down. It soon seemed like every pathway was blocked. I even dared to drive between the two buses pictured above. As we went past, I stopped to talk with one of the drivers standing there and he informed me there was no way through that way (he was quite right). But he assured us we could still get to the airport if we took a certain back-road.
Off to the back-road we went. Only this tiny two-way road, that runs along the sewage river, had suddenly turned into four lanes of traffic going in one direction (ours, thankfully) as people pressed their way forward. We inched along. We sat and waited. We shook our heads at those who impatiently squeezed their cars past us.
There were policemen on some of the back-roads, directing traffic (they avoid doing anything to stop blockades, mainly because it might make them guilty of encroaching on the protestors' rights to free speech..). We stopped to double check with one of the policemen that we weren't heading toward another dead-end, and he confirmed that there was a way through to the airport. So, we continued on, inch by inch.
After some more turns, we made it to the airport road! Hurrah! Unfortunately, we weren't in the clear yet, as we were driving on the wrong side of the road towards oncoming traffic. But here, when you're not the only one going the wrong way, that generally makes it acceptable. However, we soon came to a point when the only way to continue forward was to drive over the median. As pictured above.
Smaller vehicles than ours seemed to be handling it ok...ish. So, with the airport goal in mind, I went for it. Thankfully we made it over the median without incident and finally the way looked clear. In the back of my mind this whole time was the knowledge that I was trapping myself in the city. But, to get my friend to the airport, it had to be done.
We arrived perfectly on time. As my friend checked in, I asked the man at the desk if the pilots were already there. He assured us that the pilots of this plane would be arriving shortly on the next inbound flight. ...Then he realized that he was incorrect, that the pilots of this flight stay in the city overnight. Uh oh. He got on his radio to check in on that - apparently I was the first one to mention the blockade to him.
After sending my friend off through security (pictured above), I decided to hang out and make sure her flight got off ok. I wasn't going to be able to get anywhere soon anyhow. So, I waited on my side of security, while I knew she was on the other side, waiting for her flight to leave. At one point, I received the text below - a news service informing me that buses had suspended service in the city. Thanks for that breaking news ;).
Finally, exactly when my friend's plane was scheduled to depart, the flight crew drove up in the hotel van. They meandered their way out to the plane, and I stood with the rest of the waiting families, watching through the security glass as my friend and the other passengers boarded (the Oaxaca airport is quite small...). I even went out to the observation bleachers (again, small airport) to see them take off.
After watching her plane fade into the distance, I headed back out into the world. As I suspected, the city was still gridlocked. I'm not very familiar with the neighborhoods around the airport, so I didn't really want to hang out there. I drove up a road... that led nowhere. I drove back to where I had made it through before, and found that it was now solidly blocked with layers of buses and trucks.
I had seen some cars turning onto what looked like an alley, so I went back and turned there as well. Soon found myself in a line of traffic leading through a back neighborhood. There was traffic coming the other way as well and - so long as they're not signalling you to turn around - usually that's a good sign.
There are times, such as these, when you are following the leaders that the leaders split up, and you have to make an educated decision and really hope for the best. There were moments when we were on a single-lane dirt road with two lane traffic squeezing past each other. There were points when I was pretty sure that we were driving on what was normally a trash dump. But we finally made it to a neighborhood I was familiar with. Unable to find a way out of it, I decided to wait the blockade out there. I shopped at the supermarket, I had dinner at a taco stand, I shopped some more.

Eventually, I couldn't take it anymore. I don't know if I'm slightly claustrophobic, but I can only take the feeling of being trapped for so long. So, as the sun began to set at 8:00pm, I decided I was going to drive back towards the city and at least hang out with my friends there. I would get as close as I could and walk the rest of the way if necessary. But, as I got to the city, I found that things had cleared up considerably. So, I kept driving towards the children's home and was able to arrive around 9:00pm without incident.
In the end, my college roommate got more of a taste of Oaxaca than she bargained for. I got a pretty nice sunset, even though it was from a supermarket parking lot. In case you were curious, the buses did not get their fare increase - which I think is crazy. The value of the Mexican peso seems to be falling every day. Surely asking for 7 pesos instead of 6 won't break Oaxaca (which is already quite broken in many ways).
I realize now that, after my previous blog-post of postcards for visiting Oaxaca, this isn't especially encouraging... But, I do hope that somehow, through the work that the children's home and school is doing with this small group of kids here, the future of Oaxaca will change for the better. No band-aid will fix its problems - the roots go very deep. Hopefully working for the healing and growth of the upcoming generations will indeed make a difference - along with a lot of prayer.